this dish was the result of my need to use up a tub of ricotta before it passed its sell-by date. i had bought it to stuff courgette flowers with but didn’t manage to cook with the flowers before they wilted beyond use, despite my best efforts – they really do need to be used on the day you pick/get them.

so, i turned to dennis cotter and decided to adapt his semolina gnocchi recipe, using ricotta in place of the goats cheese, adding a handful of herbs from garden – sage, oregano and thyme – and topping the gnocchi with a lightly cooked mix of green beans (again from the garden), peas and broad beans. i finished it with a lime cream, having run out of lemons.

the result was delicious – very light, summery and perfect if you want something a bit special, either as a treat or if you are cooking for friends. the gnocchi adapted well to having the ricotta added and was very forgiving of my use of twice as much cheese as the original recipe called for. i also baked it for much longer than the original recipe suggests – 10-15 minutes each side, having turned them over once, rather than the suggested 10 minutes in total. this gave me golden slight crunchy gnocchi which went really well with the lightly cooked vegetables.

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i’ve been exploring my dennis cotter book again. this time it’s his semolina gnocchi that is sending me into raptures. it’s wonderfully simple – add semolina to a pan of boiling stock, boil for 10 minutes, flavour with cheese and herbs, pour out onto a tray and cut into pieces when set, then roast on an oiled tray.

however, each time i’ve cooked it, it’s the leftover gnocchi which sits in the oven while we eat, which tastes the best. so, i think to keep practicing but i thought i’d share the recipe with you so you can practice too and maybe you’ll help me reach the stage where i can get it right first time, for my guests. having said that, a recent guest happily worked her way through the leftovers while “helping” me with the dishes!

wild garlic, gooseberries ...and me calls for a topping of artichokes, spinach and lemon cream. i prefer this version which uses slow roasted cherry tomatoes, roasted sweet potatoes (marinade in olive oil, maple syrup, soy sauce and chilli, then dress with fresh lime juice as they come out the oven), roasted onions, roasted portabello mushrooms (fill the cap with garlic, butter and white wine then roast until soft) rocket and pomegranate seeds with roast garlic and shallot raita. very delicious, especially when followed by lemon and rosewater-frosted pistachio and orange cake.

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