
one of my weekly treats is reading the ft weekend magazine, which includes a couple of food and drink themed articles, including a regular column by rowley leigh. his writing is always thoughtful and even if the recipe doesn’t appeal i often learn something or am sent on a foodie journey, using his writing as inspiration.
a recent article extolled the virtues of dried mushrooms and their “dense rich flavour from the opening salvo” which means they are a wonderful store cupboard ingredient especially at this time of year when root vegetables have lost their appeal but spring vegetables are not yet in sight.
david is not a big fan of mushrooms which means they often slip to the back of my mind or are just used in a default and mindless way (usually to oomph up lentil dishes), but this article combined with an evening home alone, prompted me to give rowley’s recipe – pennette with ceps*, cabbage and bacon – a try.
needless to say i adapted the recipe but the one thing i clung to was a desire to make the dried mushrooms the star of the dish. it works really well and is a good variation on my existing repertoire of cabbage-based pasta dishes – with pancetta and mozzarella or sun-dried tomatoes and pine nuts. just make sure you use a flavoursome cabbage – savoy is a good default choice – which can stand up to the mushrooms and the pancetta. if you want to make a vegetarian version, use strips of sundried tomatoes instead of the pancetta.
*ceps = porcini – they are the same thing; ceps is the french name, porcini the italian
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